Scaffolding may be erected on the structure if it is over one story high. The scaffolders we use have built a solid trustworthy relationship with us over the years. They are all fully insured, and all hold up to date scaffolding tickets

To prevent any unwanted damage during the rendering works we will fully protect all windows and doors using various protective tapes. Patios, gardens, flowered areas, pathways and drives will all be sheeted using tarpaulins. Wastes pipes will stay in place so they can still be used but again taped up for full protection. Rainwater pipes will be removed from the wall to allow full access to render.​

The base substrate may need to be exposed. This will involve hammer drills knocking off the pre-existing loose render. Sometimes this is not possible due to the original render being solid and removal of this could cause structural problems from loosening brickwork or breeze blocks. In these cases, we would be inclined to go over the pre-existing render. A key may be needed to be applied to the existing render to aid the scratch coats adhesion.​

Before the scratch coat is applied to the wall it will be brushed and washed down to remove any loose debris that could interfere with the adhesion of render. A polymer base coat render is then applied to a thickness of approximately 10mm all over the wall. Once the wall has been coated a reinforced fibreglass mesh will be embedded lightly into the surface. The full structure will essentially be wrapped in the reinforced mesh prolonging the life of the system and preventing cracks. 300mmx300mm square patches of the mesh are cut and placed on the corners of any windows, doors and openings. These will help stop cracks from forming, corners of windows and doors are notorious for cracking on render as these are weak points and if there is an expansion of the render or any slight settlement in the building corners are the first place cracks will form so these stress patches will help in preventing any cracks developing. We will not install any system without this reinforced fibreglass mesh being embedded in the scratch coat as its extremely strong and durable. A key is then applied to the wet scratch coat to help with the adhesion of the Monocouche render.

Coloured plastic beads will then be mechanically fixed to doors, windows, openings and corners to ensure they are level and plumb using plastic buttons to hold them in place or a dot and dab plaster may be used to set the beads on the wall if easier. A coloured bell cast bead/drip bead will be fixed level using mechanical fixings or dot and dab along the damp course, any vertical movement joints will have a coloured expansion bead fixed to reduce the chance of cracking during the event of settlement or movement.​

The final coat is then either spray or trowel applied to achieve a thickness of 20mm, this is then ruled off using a straight edge filling in any hollows soon after. The render is then left to harden until it has almost gone off. A straight edge will be used first to remove the high spots and create a perfectly flat surface. A “hedgehog” (metal trowel with spikes) is then used to perfectly uniform the surface.​

Finally, the wall will then be brushed down with a soft brush to remove any dust.