Depending on the height of the project scaffolding may be required to ensure full easy access to the wall. A fully insured scaffolding company will carry this out. We only use a couple of scaffolding companies whom we have built a solid working relationship over the years.

Doors, windows, taps and external fixtures will be taped up and protected along with any waste pipes and water pipes. The waste pipes will remain in situ during the works so these can still be used as normal, while the rainwater pipes will be disconnected from the wall and may be directed away on a temporary basis during the rendering works.

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Before any rendering takes place we have to determine if the pre-existing render needs to be removed. If hollow the pre-existing render will be removed with a hammer drill, if solid we will leave the render in place. We do this because removal of the render when solid can cause structural problems such as damaging the face of the brick/breezeblocks or loosening of the bricks/breeze blocks.

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If knocked off the base substrate will be thoroughly checked over for any high spots of pre-existing render and then brushed to remove dust and loose Approximately 10mm of high polymer basecoat render is then applied to the wall roughing out any hollow or high spots, a fibreglass reinforcement mesh is then pushed in the basecoat whilst wet no further than the top couple of millimetres, the closer the mesh is to the surface of render the less likely it is to surface crack. Any corners of any doors, windows or openings will receive a 300mmx300mm square piece of mesh just on the corner at a 45-degree angle. The purpose of this is to stop any stress cracks appearing, corners are more likely than anywhere else on rendering to crack as this is a weak point and any slight settlement in the building or expansion of the render could cause stress cracks. Stress patches prevent this. JC Rendering will always install all our systems with this reinforced basecoat.

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Mesh beads are then applied to the windows, doors and any corners all plumb and level to give a perfect right angle. Bell cast bead/drip beads are fixed using mechanical fixings level along the damp course and any vertical movement joints have an expansion bead fitted plumb using mechanical fixings.

A 10mm coat of dash receiver (high polymer dashing mortar) is then applied over the scratch coat being trowel finished to give a flat surface ready for dashing. Once a decent area has been spread the pebbles will be applied the traditional way using a bucket and shovel.

The first coloured mortar coat is applied by trowel approximately 8mm thick and trowelled flat (this coat will resemble the mortar joints). Any corners will need extra care as a darby will be used to ensure enough thickness remains on the corner and a sharp corner is left ready for the final coat. This is then left to slightly harden before being dry trowelled flat to remove any trowel lines and high spots.

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Once the previous coat is dry enough the final coat is then applied by trowel to a thickness of 4mm covering the full wall. This will resemble the brick face and is available in various colours, whilst wet this shall be textured to the client's preference (brushed effect, dragged effect or stippled using a sponge or brush).

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The render is then left to harden

Once ready the render will precisely be marked out, when a full elevation of brick render is being achieved horizontal joints will be marked out every 2-3 meters with a small mark using a specialist tool, two people will then join these marks up using a straight edge and the bed joints will be cut out using either an 8mm or 10mm cutting tool depending on the clients preference. Once all the bed joints are cut the head joints will then be worked out then cut. The result will give a brick effect wall.

The wall will then be brushed with a soft brush to knock off any loose render made by the cutting tool leaving a nice clean-cut wall of brick render.